Gustav — Anna ASCHER. [Schéma rodiny]

Poznámky:

«b»Obituary: Zika ASCHER
«/b»Jonathan Glancey, THE INDEPENDENT, Wednesday 9 December, 1992
«u»«/u»

Zikmund (Zika) George Ascher, fabric maker, born Prague 3 April 1910, married 1939 Lida Tydlitat (died 1983; one son), died London 5 December 1992.

ZIKA ASCHER was the man who first supplied the fashion world with the shaggy mohairs, cheesecloths and romantic lacy fabrics that so characterised the European catwalks of the late Fifties, mid-Sixties and early Seventies. He was also the man who, from 1945, persuaded European artists including Matisse, Moore, Cocteau, Topolski, Derain, Piper, Laurencin and Sutherland to design a stunning sequence of 3ft silk squares which have served as glamorous scarves, turbans, wraps and skirts ever since. These have also been used as wall-hangings and featured in many exhibitions from 'Britain Can Make It', at the Victoria & Albert Museum in 1946, to the major retrospective of Ascher's work held, again at the V & A, in 1987.
Ascher's artists' squares were described by Sacheverell Sitwell, 45 years ago, as 'a revolution in industrial design' and by Australian newspapers of the same time as 'weird distortions . . . fit only to be worshipped by art devotees'. The Aschers' own designs were taken up enthusiastically by the leading couturiers of the Forties, Fifties and Sixties, by Dior and Schiaparelli, Givenchy and Lanvin, Yves Saint Laurent and Mary Quant. While his wife, Lida, designed, Zika printed the fabrics, his eye as a colourist hardly dimmed even after a stroke which effectively blinded him in one eye in recent years.
Elizabeth Morris, of the Scotsman, neatly summed up the impression that Zika and Lida Ascher made on the catwalks of post-war Paris, Milan and London; 'There seems no limit,' she wrote in 1967, 'to the inventiveness of this withdrawn, sensitive man who does so much and says so little.' In one month alone, no fewer than eight covers of Vogue around the world featured Ascher fabrics.
Working until his death, Ascher was never happier than when active and discussing new ideas with the best new fashion designers, journalists and trusted old friends. A champion skier in his native Czechoslovakia, he had until his very last years been fit and energetic. He was a tall and handsome man, but remarkably shy; this shyness, however, barely concealed a mix of charm and fierce determination to get things done and get things right. In everything he did, Ascher was a perfectionist, a crusader against mediocrity in design as in life. With Lida, Zika Ascher began experimenting with fabric design and new types of couture fabrics when they set up Ascher (London) Ltd in 1942. The couple had settled in London after a honeymoon skiiing in Norway in 1939. Learning, while they were away, that Czechoslovakia had been annexed, they decided to head straight for England. While Zika served in the British army, Lida began designing fabrics.
In Paris in 1945, Zika telephoned the greatest artists of the day including Braque and Picasso from a telephone in the Cafe du Rond Pont des Champs- Elysees; all were intrigued by the idea of making designs for fabrics, although the most famous wanted lavish fees. Ascher, however, built up a remarkable relationship with many of the artists he commissioned. All were deeply impressed by his ability to match their designs on silk exactly.
Some of the designs - Ivon Hitchens' soft flowers, for example - demanded as many as 20 screens to print. 'Not a few of these Ascher scarves', Sitwell wrote in 1947, 'will be framed upon walls a hundred years from now, for they are among the best and most characteristic products of our day.' They still are and, thankfully, you can still buy them - if you make enough fuss - at Harrods.
The fashion houses looked to the Aschers for inspiration for at least three decades. Only occasionally did designers shy at their work as, for example, with the launch of neon-coloured shaggy mohairs for the autumn and winter season of 1957. There was initial disbelief - who would wear such a bizarre material, described by American Vogue as 'soft, thick, weightless as a moth's wing, spun together out of mohair, nylon and wool' - before Castillo designed an inspiring collection of coats that were instantly aped throughout the industry.
The Aschers continued to experiment during the Sixties and Seventies, with dress- and coat-weight chenilles, with plastic-coated printed cotton fabrics and cheesecloths. Lida died in 1983 and Zika, working from his romantic house on the edge of Hampstead Heath, concentrated on his silk squares and fabric designs to order.
The impressive V & A retrospective in 1987 brought his and Lida's names to a younger audience and over the past two years Ascher made many new young friends in the worlds of fashion and decoration. Despite illness - and some disability - he was tearing around Paris with glamorous young women a few weeks ago and his circle of friends as well as admirers grew rather than diminished.


«b»Příběh českého textilního génia Ziky Aschera ožívá na unikátní výstavě
«/b»19. února 2019
«i»Zdroj«/i»: «u»«/u»
Oblékal princeznu Dianu a z látek, které navrhoval, tvořily šaty nejluxusnější módní domy. Přesto je jeho jméno v Česku poměrně neznámé. Příběh Ziky Aschera a jeho ženy Lídy by však vydal na knihu. Jeho život a odkaz přináší výstava s názvem Šílený hedvábník v pražském Uměleckoprůmyslovém muzeu.
Velké květiny, geometrické vzory, jemné linky i barevná zátiší připomínající obrazy. To všechno se objevuje na látkách, pod kterými je podepsán pražský rodák «u»Zika Ascher «/u» a jeho manželka Lída. Už na první pohled je jejich tvorba výjimečná. Preciznost, citlivost a zároveň přitažlivá kompozice tvarů i barev dává jejich textilním návrhům historický přesah.
„Příběh Ziky Ashera a jeho ženy Lídy je však především příběhem osobním. Pro mě je výstava jejich díla splněný kurátorský sen," svěřila se kurátorka výstavy Konstantina Hlaváčková, která patří k předním českým odbornicím na historii módy.
Její slova přesně vystihují osud talentovaného tvůrce a jeho rodiny. Zika, vlastním jménem Zikmund Ascher, se narodil v roce 1910 v Praze do rodiny obchodníků s textilem.
Společně s bratrem Josefem si v centru metropole otevřeli v roce 1933 prodejnu francouzských hedvábných a anglických vlněných látek a brzy se stali nejvyhledávanějším obchodem ve městě. Zika byl energický a divoký, miloval večírky, rychlou jízdu autem, adrenalin.
Byl také vynikajícím sjezdovým lyžařem, účastnil se úspěšně řady závodů, dokonce v roce 1938 reprezentoval Československo na mistrovství světa. Odtud pochází jeho přezdívka Šílený hedvábník, kterou mu dali sportovní novináři ve 30. letech minulého století.
«b»Šátky jako malířské plátno
«/b»V únoru 1939 se oženil s Lídou (Ludmilou) Tydlitátovou, dívkou ze zámožné katolické rodiny, se kterou odjeli na svatební cestu do Norska. Do Prahy se však kvůli Zikově židovskému původu nevrátili a usadili se v Londýně. Zde o tři roky později založili oděvní firmu Ascher, která se zaměřila na výrobu látek a šátků tištěných podle návrhů umělců. Hned od počátku slavili úspěchy.
Spolupracovali s nejvýznamnějšími umělci, například s Henrim Matissem, Henrym Moorem nebo Cecilem Beatonem. Ze spolupráce vznikly ikonické šátky Ascher Squares, které se staly světovým bestsellerem. V krátké době byly vystaveny téměř na všech kontinentech. Na sklonku roku 1947 hostil výstavu i pražský Mánes, kde Ascherovy šátky doplnil tištěný textil podle návrhů českých výtvarníků. Výstava se konala v předvečer zlomových únorových událostí.
Mezi klienty manželů Ascherových byly nejslavnější módní domy, například Christian Dior, Cristoóbal Balenciaga, Coco Chanel, Jeanne Lanvin, Yves Saint Laurent nebo Alberto Fabiani. Firma Ascher měla široké zaměření - jejich hedvábné a bavlněné tištěné látky i různé typy vlněných tkanin se staly světovým fenoménem. Z látek, které vytvořil Zika Ascher, šili návrháři, kteří oblékali britskou královskou rodinu, včetně princezny Diany.
Lída Ascher zemřela v Londýně roce 1983, Zika o devět let později. Řadí se k nejvýznamnějším Čechům, jejichž práce se stala světovým pojmem, doma však byli naprosto zapomenuti. Až do 15. září má veřejnost šanci se s těmito nevšedními postavami módního průmyslu seznámit na impozantní výstavě v Uměleckoprůmyslovém muzeu.
Shodou náhod se podařilo kurátorce muzea dostat se k rodině Ascherů, se kterými tři roky výstavu Šílený hedvábník připravovala. Převážná část exponátů pochází ze soukromých sbírek rodiny, především syna Petera a jeho ženy Robin. Další exponáty i z umělecká galerie v severoanglickém Manchesteru, londýnského Muzea královny Viktorie a prince Alberta a francouzského Matissova muzeum v Le Cateau-Cambrésis.
Zdroj: «u»

«/u»«b»«i»WIKIPEDIA«/b»«/i»:
«b»Zika ASCHER«/b» (3 April 1910 - 5 September 1992), born «b»Zikmund Ascher«/b», with nickname «i»The Mad Silkman«/i», was a «u»Czech «/u» «u»textile «/u» businessman, artist and designer who became pre-eminent in the related fields of «u»British «/u» «u»textiles «/u», art, and fashion. He created his own textile company, which made its name with experimental fabrics and scarves designed by famous contemporary artists.
«b»Background and family:
«/b»Ascher was born in «u»Prague «/u» in a family of rich Jewish textile businessmen. He excelled as young successful «u»skiing «/u» champion and he began his career of textile businessman. In February of 1939 he married his wife Lida, Ludmila born Tydlitátová (*1913 Prague), coming from a Roman-catholic family as the youngest of 6 children (3 daughters), educated on the secondary school of trade and economy. The same year they moved to «u»England «/u», because Czechoslovakia was annexed by Germany. In 1940 Zika entered the British army. In 1942, Zika and Lida Ascher set up their own textile company, Ascher (London) Ltd.«sup»«/sup»
Soon they collaborated with a cousin«b» Ernest «i»Enda«/i» Ascher«/b», who settled in Paris as an art businessman and helped them with trade contacts. Aschers had the only son «b»Peter«/b», who lives in the United States.
«b»Influence«/b»:
Zika Ascher's significant influence on the collections of major couturiers, such as Christian Dior , Cristóbal Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent , is cited in «i»The Vogue History of Twentieth-Century Fashion«/i» by Jane Mulvagh (London: Viking Penguin , 1988). Christian Dior referred to Ascher as "Mr Rose Pompom" after Ascher designed a beautiful rose-printed fabric in the 1950s, and used it extensively in the summer Haute Couture collection by Dior.
«u»«i»Apollo magazine «/u»«/i» London published a six-page monograph on Ascher in 1987. His work was displayed at the first major retrospective of Balenciaga's work at the Silk Museum in «u»Lyons «/u» 1986. One of the first «u»John Galliano «/u» collections, "Les Incroyables", featured many yards of Ascher's cream cheesecloth, drenched in water.
An obituary in «u»«i»The Independent «/u»«/i» in 1992 credits Ascher with not only being the first to supply shaggy mohairs but also with introducing cheesecloths and romantic lacy fabrics to the catwalks of the late 1950s and mid-'60s.«sup» «/sup»
«b»Legacy:«/b»
Ascher's legacy is governed by their only son «b»Peter«/b». A 264-page book about the work of "«i»Ascher and his wife Lida«/i»", by Valerie D. Mendes and Frances M. Hinchcliffe, in collaboration with Lida Ascher, was published by the «u»Victoria and Albert Museum (V &A)«/u» in London, to coincide with a 1987 retrospective exhibition of the Aschers' work. The title «i»Ascher: Fabric, Art, Fashion «/i», describes the breadth of their achievements in these three related fields.«sup»«/sup»
Three photographic portraits of Zika Ascher are held in the collection at the National Portrait Gallery in London; two by John Gay and a third by Francis Goodman. The Museum of Applied Arts in Prague organised a large research and exhibition under the title «i»Šílený hedvábník«/i» (in English «i»The Mad Silkman«/i») in March of 2019«sup» <«i»https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zika_Ascher«/i»>«/sup».
Czech TV is preparing a film about Zika Ascher, that will be broadcast in September 2019.

Zikmund byl(a) sezdán(a) s Ludmila (Lida) TYDLITÁTOVÁ-ASCHER, - textile designer Únor 1939, Praha, Czech Rep.. Ludmila se narodil(a) 19 Říjen 1913, Praha, Czech Rep.; zemřel(a) 28 Květen 1983; byl(a) pohřben(a) Long Ave., Brookwood, UK. [Schéma rodiny]

Poznámky:

OBITUARY (2009 June 22)
Love conquered all for war bride
http://www.henleystandard.co.uk/news/news.php?id=614500

JIRINA TONDER has died, aged 90.
When Hitler invaded Czechoslovakia in March 1938, Jirina (née Ascher) was 18 and skiing for the Czechs in Switzerland.
Since her father was Jewish, she contacted her brother, who was visiting Oslo, and he advised that she abandon her homeland and go straight to England.
In London, she worked on the Czech newspaper. Then, in 1943, someone handed her the obituary of a gallant Czech Air Force officer, who had flown for the RAF in the Battle of Britain and whom she had met a couple of times. They had fallen in love. She left the newspaper and went to work for the Women's Royal Air Force before finding out that the officer wasn't dead at all but had apparently bailed out over the Channel.
His name was Ivo and after being picked up by the Germans, he was eventually taken to the Stalag Luft III prisoner of war camp where he joined the tunnellers on the famous Great Escape of 1944.
Most of those who got out were caught, taken to the woods and shot dead.
His escape partner was one of those who died but Ivo was lucky \emdash since Germany had annexed Czechoslovakia, it refused to treat him as a regular British officer, so he was tried for treason, sentenced to death and sent to Colditz. The sentence was never carried out and on his birthday, April 16 1945, Colditz was liberated.
Arriving in England weighing only eight stone, Ivo immediately sought out Jirina. He assumed she had married a childhood friend but she hadn't.
They found one another again and were married on May 4, less than three weeks after Ivo's release and just in time to celebrate VE Day four days later. After the war, the couple returned to Czechoslovakia but the country had changed and the seeds of Soviet hegemony were hard to ignore.
In the Czech Air Force anyone who served on the Eastern front had preferment, so Ivo suggested they return to England but with a baby on the way, Jirina preferred to stay.
When things got worse, and the Communists started taking control, a second baby was imminent, so they stayed through the Communist putsch of February 1948 rather than give birth in the camps in Germany.
As soon as the baby arrived in April, they made their escape but by now the border was very hard to cross and they were caught.
Ivo was sent to prison and Jirina attempted another escape but was caught again. The children were taken away and she was told she would never see them again.
Ivo sent her a message telling her to escape and that he would get out too. She managed it but remained in hiding for nine months.
He did reach London ansd, hearing no news of his wife, waited. Jirina, meanwhile, made it to Austria, accompanied by a somewhat unstable man carrying a sub-machine gun in a backpack.
They boarded a bus and when it stopped to pick up half the Red Army, the whole experience became so terrifying that she wouldn't talk of it for years.
By 1950, the couple were both in London and they tried to get the children out. A year later, a phone call came through from the RAF telling them their children were safe and coming home.
Finally, Jirina could settle down to a happy marriage, which lasted 50 years.
She moved to Hurley in 1972 before eventually settling in Baronsmead, Henley, 20 years ago, surrounded by her grandchildren.
Her daughter lived with her for the last nine years. Her son died of cancer in 2001 and her husband in 1995. She is survived by her daughter, five grandchildren and one great grandson.
The funeral will take place on Tuesday at the Reading Crematorium.

Jiřina — Ivo TONDER, - textil tisk. Ivo (syn od JUDr. Ferdinand TONDER a Miloslava ZÁTKOVÁ-TONDEROVÁ, - painter) se narodil(a) 16 Duben 1913, Praha, Czech Rep.; zemřel(a) 4 Květen 1995, Henley, UK. [Schéma rodiny]

Poznámky:

«b»Josef ASCHER «/b»zůstal v Praze. Přestože bratři Josef a Zikmund měli židovskou krev po otci, a nikoliv po matce, byli podle pokřivené logiky norimberských zákonů v ohrožení. Josefova matka tak přemluvila rodinného známého s čistým rasovým profilem, aby se nechal prohlásit za jeho biologického otce, a válku tak na rozdíl od mnoha dalších členů rodiny přežil bez úhony. Po znárodnění rodinn o podniku pracoval pro Centrotex, který měl na starosti export textilních výrobků. Dlouho to ale nevydržel a na začátku 50. let také emigroval. Protože Velká Británie již uprchlíky z Evropy nepřijímala a podle Petera "Londýn nebyl pro dva Aschery dost veliký", zamířil do Kanady.

Jiné události:

• Odchod do USA: 1978, London, England; Z českých rodičů, naarozený v Anglii. Po mládí v Anglii, odešel do USA

Poznámky:

«b»Peter ASCHER se prosadil s látkami v USA
«/b»Výstava o Ascherových v UMPUM Praha se začala připravovat už v roce 2011 a podílel se na ní i Ascherův syn Peter a jeho manželka Robin, kteří v roce 1978 odešli do USA, kde také podnikají v textilu. Peter dodnes mluví češtinou, jakou se naučil od svých rodičů.
"Když jsem se narodil, byli rodiče starší, bylo jim 40 a 37 let a mluvili předválečnou češtinou. Anglicky jsem se naučil, když jsem šel do školy. Moje teta Jiřina, která zemřela v roce 2009, se mnou mluvila do telefonu česky, a to mě pomohlo si jazyk udržet. Nejdéle jsem byl v České republice deset dní."
Kdy jste poprvé přijel do České republiky ?
"V roce 1957. Když mi bylo kolem patnácti, tak jsem začal jezdit sám. Nikdy jsem neměl strach, protože jsem rozuměl česky."
Kdy se podíval domů tatínek?
"V roce 1966 na lyže, a v roce 1967 jsme jeli na venkov. To bylo krásné, byli jsme tam asi deset dní. Trošku jsem viděl, jaký měli život před válkou. Když bylo tatínkovi 80, tak jsme přijeli asi tři měsíce po revoluci. On byl v roce 1936 na olympiádě, a závodil s ním pan Hromádka a pan Čtvrtečka. Dohodli se na obědě, a jeden přijel 60 kilometrů na kole, druhý přišel pěšky 40 kilometrů. Na obědě pak seděli ti tři staří páni, a to bylo fantastické. Před tím se naposledy viděli v roce 1937."
Maminka plavala, tatínek lyžoval. Co vy a sport?
"Když mě byly dva roky, tak mě postavili na lyže. Pořád jezdím rychle. Mám tři syny, a taky jsou bezvadní lyžaři. Všichni se zajímají o rodinnou historii a jsou teď v Praze."
Pozoruhodný příběh i práci rodiny Ascherů můžete poznat na výstavě až do poloviny září 2019.

Peter — Robin Sadek ASCHER, - textile designer. Robin se narodil(a) cca 1955. [Schéma rodiny]

Ivan byl(a) sezdán(a) s Caroline N. TONDER 25 Leden 1969. Caroline se narodil(a) 18 Listopad 1946. [Schéma rodiny]

Jiné události:

• Rozvod: 28 Březen 1990, Chicago, Illinois, USA
• Note: 2009, Henley, UK; Mother Jiřina obituary

Poznámky:

Note:
The obituary in 2009 for mother Ji ina:
http://www.henleystandard.co.uk/news/news.php?id=614500

Petra byl(a) sezdán(a) s Mark RONAN 11 Srpen 1978, Henley-on-Thames, UK; rozvod 28 Březen 1990. Mark se narodil(a) 3 Duben 1947, London, England. [Schéma rodiny]

Toby — Wife of Toby ASCHER. [Schéma rodiny]

Poznámky:

«b»Sam ASCHER«/b», fourth generation director of the veteran company, is a young man on a mission. "This was the official launch of our new scarf line in the US for buyers and press. We were communicating the history of our company and talking about the direction and the future that we see for ourselves in the fashion and home accessories business.
The Ascher name is closely linked to great mid-century fashion designers such as Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Jean Muir, Mary Quant and Pierre Cardin, for whom they made textiles.
In addition, the visionary Zika Ascher, Sam's grandfather, had close links to fine artists in France and England, and as Europe began to heal after the decimation of WWII, he realized these artists needed work, so he asked them to design scarves and print designs for him.
Thus began a series of commissions from artists whose names inspire awe: Matisse, Picasso, Jean Cocteau, Sonia Delaunay, Henry Moore, Paul Nash, Graham Sutherland, Feliks Topolski, and Alexander Calder are among them.
The Aschers are textile people, originally from Prague, with innate style and an uncompromising approach to quality. They're also artists. Having moved to London to escape the war, in the late '70's they moved again to New York where Peter Ascher and his designer wife Robin concentrated on new wave cottons and silks for fashion designers.
Now their son Sam is forging into the future with a new collection of scarves silk-screened onto silk twill, silk chiffon and a sumptuous cashmere/modal blend. The designs by Graham Sutherland, Feliks Topolski, Gerald Wilde and Alexander Calder, have been carefully selected from the Ascher archives, and re-issued in vibrant new colorways. The Wilde piece is taken from a fabric worn by Princess Elizabeth on her Royal Tour of Australia in 1947. Each scarf has Ascher London on the label, to denote that the design is different from the limited editions issued during the Zika Ascher's London period.
"I'm delighted to return to London where my grandparents founded the company and created so many of the historic designs in our archives. There is great interest in vintage mid-century design, both in fashion and interiors, so re-issuing scarves from our archive in fashionable sizes and fabrics is the most contemporary move I could make. I'm tremendously excited by these designs, and I hope London will be too." Says Ascher.
In addition, there are 4 new designs: starting with Flowers, an optimistic floral originally by Sam's grandmother Lida, which he has reconfigured in black or pink. The Ascher plaid is fun and quirky in grey, black and bright pink. Rose Pompom is based on an Ascher pattern that featured prominently in the Christian Dior collection of 1954, now an absolute smash in beige, grey/magenta or pink cashmere. Papier Dechiré is a geometric abstract in beige or blue, reminiscent of an early 1960s non-objective painting.
Sam has plans to develop a line of interiors accessories '96 using both vintage and new designs. "We are hoping to commission new artists for scarves and interiors accessories too. The future is wide open!" he says with a smile.
«b»«i»Artdailz.org «/b»
http://artdaily.com/news/40050/Famous-Ascher-Studio-Re-Launches-with-New-Collection-of-Scarves#.XLve7PZFzIU«/i»

Poznámky:

Hannah Tonder started «b»«i»Tonder & Tonder«/b»«/i» in 2001.
After graduating in English and Media Hannah was a journalist for 7 years before starting her own company following in a tradition of textiles and manufacturing in her family.
Hannah's grandfather Ivo founded the company Ivo Prints soon after arriving from Czechoslovakia, and her parents ran their own commission printing and manufacturing company Artraco for 25 years as well as selling under their own brand Cally & Co.
Specialising in bedlinen, Hannah's one colour designs have now been transferred onto tablelinen and accessories. All of the textiles are made in England, and she has just put her designs onto her first range of ceramics made in Stoke-on-Trent in collaboration with the designer Polly George.
Tonder & Tonder is run from converted barns in South Oxfordshire.
«b»The Long Barn, Bryants Farm, Dunsden RG4 9PB«/b»
«b»Telephone: 0118 9463 704«/b»
«b»Email: «u»sales@tonderandtonder.com«/b»«/u»

Sophy byl(a) sezdán(a) s Thomas BERGIN 3 Srpen 2005, Dunsden, Oxfordshire, UK. Thomas se narodil(a) Kildare, Ireland. [Schéma rodiny]

Piers — Abigail HAYHOE. [Schéma rodiny]